January 2005

WORTH THE DRIVE

TIM AND LIZA TAKE LOS ANGELES

Meson G marks the triumphant return of O.C.’s famed culinary duo Tim and Liza Goodell to the L.A. restaurant scene.

The Goodells preside over a small empire of our best restaurants, including Aubergine—one of the finest on the West Coast. The couple stormed across the county line two-and-a-half years ago with the splashy debut of Whist at the Viceroy, but they’ve been looking for a place of their very own ever since. And what a comeback! Meson C is the hottest restaurant to open in L.A. since the debut of Bastide in the fall of 2002—and there have been some truly hot restaurants since: Table 8, Patina, Grace, Cinch, Norman’s and Yi Cuisine come to mind.

The space formerly occupied by Alex and Citrus has been transformed with a chic white-leather-on-dark-wood scheme and fabulous Pebble Tec floors that make sitting inside feel like the outdoors. More importantly, though, the food is terrific—a small-plates menu that goes head-to-head with A.O.C. But make no mistake: This isn’t tapas. Nor is it remotely similar to any Spanish restaurant you’ve ever been to in the United States. Spain simply serves as the inspirational springboard for a collaborative tour de force between the Goodells and the chef they’ve tapped to run the kitchen, the very talented Eric Greenspan, who was formerly the executive chef at Patina.

6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.525.1415 —Brad A. Johnson