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Los Angeles

 

 

July 1, 2005

Dakota Fawning

dakota!

Cousin Sue just called. She's coming for a visit.

Last time she was here, she dragged you down the Walk of Fame, breaking only to compare pinky lengths with Paula Abdul and Lucille Ball.

This trip will be different. While Sue chases down celeb-a-likes, you can sit civilized at the newly opened Dakota at the Roosevelt Hotel.

Both the space and the menu have undergone extensive renovations, but their Old Hollywood charm remains intact. The massive carved-wood windows were untouched, while the rest of the room got decked in chocolate leather and suede.

The food? Updated American classics with Italian and French twists (foie gras du jour, fritto misto). Start the day with steak and eggs or a mascarpone cheese blintz. Later, try roasted baby beets with goat cheese or a cheeseburger and fries. If you're in for dinner, go for a steak — there are many cuts to choose from.

Afterward, hit the Tropicana for a poolside drink and wait for Sue to get tired of loitering in front of Mann's Chinese with Marilyn and the wookiees.

And if you or Sue have one too many, you can always get a room.

Or maybe two.


Dakota at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Boulevard, at North Orange Drive, Hollywood (323-769-8888 or dakota-restaurant.com).

 


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